Bali, Hi - Eight months in Bali

Part XI
Don't start the revolution without me
by Mad Dog

 

The last revolution in the United States was almost 225 years ago and I missed it. From what I recall hearing in school, and the reviews I read of The Patriot, it was a pretty good one as revolutions go. 

    I’ve been here four and a half out of my six months and I’m trying to figure out what to do next. I’m not going to lay my neurotic lack-of-decision-making process out here for all to see. Trust me, it’s not pretty. Let’s just say that day to day, minute to minute, it cycles through: stay here for another month or two, go to Chiang Mai, Thailand for a while, head back to the U.S. where I have a prospective petsitting gig in Portland for three weeks and nothing else lined up, or, well, something else.

    As usual, I’m not wracking my brain, I’m waiting for divine inspiration, though at the moment any inspiration would do nicely. I’ve tossed around the pros and cons: it feels pretty good here/ there’s not a lot of varied sensory input/there’s some semblance of community/ there’s no Balinese word for infrastructure, blah, blah, blah, boring, boring, boring. But this week a new factor cropped up: it’s looking more and more like the government could topple and—what can I say?—I’ve never been around that before.

If Balinese scarecrows only had a heart    The last revolution in the United States was almost 225 years ago and I missed it. From what I recall hearing in school, and the reviews I read of The Patriot, it was a pretty good one as revolutions go. But unfortunately we don’t do these things every day. Or even every century. It’s a shame too, since there’s a lot to be said for shaking things up once in a while. Sure it’s a big change having a president who has more money than experience and more of Daddy’s staff than brains, but that’s just not the same thing. Hell, that’s not revolution or evolution—it’s more like a recurring nightmare.

 

In the rest of the world they take these things much more seriously.  They fill the streets in protest, they have general strikes that paralyze the country, and they block the roads with trucks just to see if traffic can really get any worse than usual. 

    Face it, as Americans we’re too civilized, too genteel, and most of all, too jaded. We get excited over the president getting a blow job, hanging chads in Florida, and our favorite soap opera being interrupted by an annoying announcement about some devastating earthquake in India. But we don’t get too excited. Except maybe over missing those three minutes of All My Children.

    Sure, we’ll spout off at the dinner table and watch the family recoil in horror as the mashed potato bits fly out of our mouth. We’ll even write a letter to the editor and not bother to mail it. But take to the streets and demonstrate? Hah! The U.S. hasn’t seen a good demonstration since Nixon resigned. God, I wish we had him to kick around some more.

    It’s true there was Seattle during the WTO conference, but that wasn’t a purely American protest. Besides, no one had any idea what the cause was—not those demonstrating nor those at home watching it because they accidentally hit the wrong button on the remote. In an interview in the San Francisco Chronicle, one activist who was at a demonstration training camp—“Mom, instead of going to computer camp this summer can I go to Camp Its-a-Pro-Test?”—couldn’t tell the reporter what she was against, only that she was against “something”. So it was really just a mass temper tantrum, and the best most of them could come up with was, “Because. That’s why.”

 

 

 

In the U.S. the only way you can get this many students in the street at one time is to give them free tickets to the taping of MTV’s Spring Break. And tell them Jennifer Lopez will be having sex with Daisy Fuentes on stage. 

    In the rest of the world they take these things much more seriously. In fact, it’s an important part of their life. They fill the streets in protest, they have general strikes that paralyze the country, and they block the roads with trucks just to see if traffic can really get any worse than usual. Maybe it’s not as “civilized”, but it’s passionate. In the U.S. our passion is reserved for the Thursday night TV line-up, small nation-sized bags of chips, and spouses during the first year of marriage.

    Hey, I might get the chance to be around when a government is overthrown!

    All week tens of thousands of students have been taking to the streets of Jakarta protesting because President Abdurrahman Wahid was allegedly involved in two scandals, neither of which, unfortunately for him, involves sex. Each day they demonstrate in front of the House of Representatives, making their views known, trying to effect positive social change, and putting off starting that term paper on “The Long-term Effects of PlayStation on My Grade Point Average.”

Lake Batur    In the U.S. the only way you can get this many students in the street at one time is to give them free tickets to the taping of MTV’s Spring Break. And tell them Jennifer Lopez will be having sex with Daisy Fuentes on stage. With a donkey. Hey, you usually have to go to Tijuana to see something that good.

    For my parents’ sake, I do need to mention that Jakarta, where all this action is taking place, is 600 miles away and across the Bali Strait. While it’s true Bali is a province of Indonesia, it’s had precious little political demonstrating in the past. In fact, one popular guidebook describes a student demonstration in Denpasar when Suharto was ousted as “more like a street party.”

 

Not long ago, in Kuta, a guy actually asked me if I needed transport while I was climbing out of a car and hadn’t even closed the door yet. If they’re nothing, they’re an optimistic bunch.

    I can’t guarantee we’re immune here, but it’s not likely to be a problem. For one thing, Bali is predominantly Hindu and people are much less hot-headed. For another, it survives on tourism, and face it, political uprisings aren’t good for tourism. Well, not unless you want to attract a bunch of people like me, and I don’t think I’m what most tourist boards consider their prime target market.

    But it definitely has an effect—tamu are few and far between right now. Much of this is natural since it is, after all, February, and that’s hardly prime traveling season. Plus it’s the rainy season, though so far it’s been a pretty light one. (Excuse me while I continue typing with my dfcfuwindm gdnigy...I mean, my fingers crossed.)

    Sitting on the steps at Tino’s, a market on Jalan Raya, I talk to the drivers who hang around asking every non-Balinese who walks by if they want “transport” while making steering motions with their hands, even the drivers who have motorbikes and not cars. They’re persistent. Some days they ask me if I want transport while I have my motorcycle helmet in one hand and the key in the other. Not long ago, in Kuta, a guy actually asked me if I needed transport while I was climbing out of a car and hadn’t even closed the door yet. If they’re nothing, they’re an optimistic bunch.

Komang, Pak Dog, and Ubud    But they’re not very optimistic at the moment. Business has been slower than usual and they blame the U.S. government. After all, they’re the ones who keep issuing those pesky travel warnings. You know, the ones that say, “The Department of State urges American citizens to defer nonessential travel to Indonesia.”

 

So I check the newspaper every few days to keep an eye on the situation. And watch the news on TV wondering what the hell they’re saying. 

    Several drivers have asked me why they don’t disclude Bali when they issue these. I tried to explain that as far as our government is concerned, Indonesia is Indonesia. I told one that I’d see if I could get them to change it to say “Indonesia with the exception of Bali.” Now every time I see him he asks me if I’ve heard back yet. At first I told him Madeleine Albright’s handphone was always busy. Then I told him Colin Powell took over and I didn’t have his phone number. When he pressed me I said a friend was trying to get it for me. I’m running out of excuses. I’m dangerously close to having to tell him a gecko ate my e-mail.

    I can understand how people get the wrong impression about what’s going on here. After all, there are problems in Timor, Aceh, and Jakarta to name just a few. The fact that Indonesia is made up of 13,670 islands and the trouble spots are at least 600 miles away from me isn’t made clear on the nightly news. Not that I expect Peter Jennings to use my location as a basis for describing Indonesian unrest, though it certainly would put my parents’ minds at ease if he would. It might also put a stop to the biweekly e-mails they send asking if it’s really a good idea for me to be here. And while I’m at it, will I remind them of my real name, which son I am, and whether the Christmas presents I sent them are really lost in the mail or, as in past years, am I just making it up.

    So I check the newspaper every few days to keep an eye on the situation. And watch the news on TV wondering what the hell they’re saying. I really hate to base a decision about what I’m going to do with my life on a government’s political unrest, but it could be worse. I could flip a soon-to-be-devalued coin.

Previous ] Part XII - Size doesn't matter, but sometimes longer is better ]
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