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Part I
Cleared for Landing
by Mad Dog
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Until now Id been used to starving on
flights and eating candy bars when I landed because I have a firm policy of not putting
anything in my mouth that I A) cant identify and, B) isnt a color found in
nature. |
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Traveling can be
a disorienting experience when you cross time zones, oceans, and that person sitting next
to you on the plane who thinks his elbow can be in your side for 12 straight hours without
your saying a word. Maybe you didnt notice, but that was Rod Serling standing
at the entrance to the boarding ramp, even though he was trying to disguise himself by
wearing a blue airline employee uniform that was in style for five minutes in 1958. Maybe.
Obviously whoever it is that designs these uniforms either wants to make sure there will
be no testosterone on board ("Please check all excess testosterone with the Sky Cap
before boarding") or just plain hates women. This
particular flight, from San Francisco to Paris, was an eye-opener. In a non-paid plug for
Air France I have to say they disproved one long held belief of minethat the
Mile-High Club is a myth. Just kidding. Unfortunately. No, it turns out what they really
disproved is that airline food is inedibletheirs was damned good. We feasted on
terrine, duckling or salmon, camembert, good bread, flan, and free wine. Even seconds on
the bread and wine. Hell, until now Id been used to starving on flights and eating
candy bars when I landed because I have a firm policy of not putting anything in my mouth
that I A) cant identify and, B) isnt a color found in nature.
They also proved that the myth of the sexy flight attendant is
true, something which, at the risk of incurring the wrath of flight attendants everywhere,
I didnt believe. No, it wasnt just the accents, though that was a big help. It
was the person in Human Resources (which in a nod to old world charm they probably still
call Personnel) who laid down the law that only women with slight overbites could work for
Air France. Someone give that person the Nobel Peace Prizethanks to him or her I
dreamed peacefully the entire flight, even when I wasnt sleeping. The flight
stewards, or guys as they like to be called, may have had overbites too, but to be honest
I didnt pay any attention.
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I slept all the way to Rennes, waking up at the
end to say a prayer to St. Samsonite (the patron saint of travelers and jumping gorillas)
that my luggage was still there. And full. I think I like this country already. |
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The sound system
on the plane was better (electronics instead of pushing airwhat a concept!), the
seats were a touch more comfortable though just as cramped, and the movies, well, they
sucked as usual. But that was okay, they put me to sleep, which made waking up to a flight
attendant with a slight overbite leaning over me murmuring in French that it was time to
wake up a very nice bienvenu. True, it would have been nicer had the other 400
people not been on the flight, but Im trying not to be too picky.
Im headed to St-Malo, a seaside vacation town in Bretagne on the English Channel.
Bretagne is French for Brittany. Français is French for French. Ill be using
as much français as possible through this because I want to get into the swing of
French life (la vie française) during my two-month stay. Well, that and Id
like to prove that three years of High School French, a $40 Berlitz CD-ROM, and a French
For Travelers phrasebook that thinks "Je crois que je suis perdu"
(I think Im lost) is actually a good thing to say to a stranger in a foreign country
can actually pay off.
I take the train to Rennes, where my friend Vincent, who got
me into this, and his mother pick me up, saving me from taking a second train to St-Malo.
Not that it would have been a problem since I slept all the way to Rennes anyway, waking
up at the end to say a prayer to St. Samsonite (the patron saint of travelers and jumping
gorillas) that my luggage was still there. And full. I think I like this country already.
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I sat in his kitchen, still disoriented,
drinking tea from a soup bowl and eating rock hard pieces of baguette with jam while
listening to this retired physics professor tell memostly in incomprehensible
Frenchabout his life teaching mécanique physique. |
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We had dinner in
a restaurant that specialized in choucroute (sauerkraut and sausages), joined by
Mme. Lelievres dog. Dogs, you see, are welcome in restaurants in France. Well, the
ones that dont serve them, anyway. Just kidding. After all, this is France, not
Korea. By the time we got to St-Malo and I settled into my
small apartment by the sea, I was more than ready to crash. Funny how being totally turned
around by time zones, drinking wine, and filling your stomach can do that to a person. I
tried to check my email but things were being strange and I wasnt in a state of mind
to figure them out. I climbed into the bottom bunk bedWhat? No cowboy and Indian
flannel sheets?and crashed.
The next morning, no sooner had I opened the outer doors to
let some light in than Paul, my landlord, appeared and invited me upstairs for petit
déjeuner. "Its always fascinating to see how other cultures do things
differently than we do," I thought while sitting in his kitchen, still disoriented,
drinking tea from a soup bowl and eating rock hard pieces of baguette with jam while
listening to this retired physics professor tell memostly in incomprehensible
Frenchabout his life teaching mécanique physique.
It wasnt until a few days later that I discovered these
quaint customs were just Paul being Paul. His wife, Miréne, you see, served me tea in
mugs while apologizing profusely for my being fed stale baguette. And she hasnt used
the words mécanique and physique in the same sentence to me yet.
Yet.
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