| |
|
|
I've
seen the future of food, and boy is it fancy
by Mad Dog
|
Certainly the
Tibetan cheese, fennel pollen, and Belgian chocolate truffles were
fancy. On the other hand, the potato chip cookies, Soy Vay “Asian
Jewish soul food,” and pasta chips weren’t. |
|
Houston may have retained
its title as the fattest city in the United States for the second year
in a row, but after going to the Fancy Food Show in San Francisco this
week, the fifth fittest city may give Houston a run for its money. Well,
for the few days during the show it did, anyway. Imagine 1,200
exhibitors promoting 50,000 food items over a three-day period by
handing samples to people who were walking around holding their stomachs
searching for the Maalox booth. Makes you pretty sorry you stayed home
and watched that two-minute Best of the XFL video again,
doesn’t it?
It’s hard to figure out just what
fancy food is, since the term has different meaning to different people.
Most of us would agree that caviar, for example, is a fancy food, though
some would say it’s fancy cat food. Being imported helps, though only
in the country it’s imported into. For example, in the U.S. we think
Foster’s is fancy beer, yet the Aussie’s won’t touch the oversized
cans with a ten-foot crocodile. In England they consider escargot to be
fancy while the French think they’re your average everyday snail. And
yes, in some countries they even think the secret sauce on a Big Mac is
fancy while…okay, there are limits to what anyone can consider fancy.
It’s hard to tell what the people
who put on the Fancy Food Show think fancy food is. I suspect it’s
anything put out by someone who pays the booth rental. Certainly the
Tibetan cheese, fennel pollen, and Belgian chocolate truffles were
fancy. On the other hand, the potato chip cookies, Soy Vay “Asian
Jewish soul food,” and pasta chips weren’t.
|
Speed is
also important, since there’s nothing more satisfying than whipping up
something fancy in less time than it takes K-Mart to sell out their
inventory of unused blue light bulbs.
|
|
An awful lot of the products were working overtime trying to fake
fancy. Like the popcorn. There was Hawaiian kettle cooked popcorn, black
popcorn (which pops white just like Orville’s stuff), Pez flavored
popcorn, and peanut butter toffee coated popcorn. I’m sorry, but even
if you made popcorn pâté it wouldn’t be fancy. Or edible. And yes,
someone at the show probably was handing out samples of the stuff but I
missed it because, the truth be told, I spent most of my time dodging
the people who kept shoving trays of Fudge-Covered Tuna Chips
under my nose.
Apparently superlatives help make
something fancy. That’s why so many items at the show were Faster!
More Intense! Less Real! Brent and Sam claimed to have the perfect
cookie. Every third booth swore they had the hottest hot sauce. And
there was a big battle over who had the most virgin olive oil (“Ours
has never even had oral sex!”). The concept must be contagious—one
booth was selling extra virgin honey, which I assume means the bees had
never even been kissed.
Speed is also important, since
there’s nothing more satisfying than whipping up something fancy in
less time than it takes K-Mart to sell out their inventory of unused
blue light bulbs. There was cassoulet you can make in three minutes and
crème brulée that’s ready in ten (“Blowtorch sold separately!”).
There was two-minute microwave fudge, ten-minute tiramisu (“Just add
taste and texture!”), and even cans of instant cappuccino cream to top
off the 3,987 brands of instant gourmet coffee being sold. Hell, two
items were so quick to prepare that no sooner would you open the package
than it turns out you already made it. Einstein would be proud.
|
The next thing you know they’ll figure out that prunes—I
mean, dried plums— can keep windows sparkling, help cars get 200 miles
per gallon, and erase sitcom laugh tracks. |
|
Being a fancy food doesn’t mean it’s real, though. One
company was selling Pasta Lite, which has one-fourth the carbohydrates
thanks to their using soy flour and soy protein. I’m sure it tastes
best when topped with a sauce of hothouse tomatoes sautéed in slutty
olive oil and sprinkled with tofu cheese. You could buy almost anything
imaginable with the caffeine removed, then go down three booths and pick
up some super-caffeinated peppermints. There was flavored water,
vitamin-enriched water, and antioxidant water. Is it any wonder the
booth selling Swiss cannabis pastilles and hemp flower candy lozenges
was doing such a booming business?
Surprisingly, I didn’t see any new
prune products, though I have to admit it would have been easy to miss
them among all that fancy popcorn. Prunes aren’t fancy, you say? Well,
maybe in the past they weren’t, but their fancy quotient skyrocketed
last year when the Food and Drug Administration allowed them to be
called Well-Aged Fruit With Character Lines. Just kidding. Actually
that’s Richard Simmons.
It is true that, thanks to the FDA,
growers can call prunes dried plums without worrying about being hauled
in and locked up. Not only have they gotten a name change, but it’s
turning out they’re a miracle food, and not just in the way your
grandparents thought. First, school cafeterias started adding prune
puree to their ground beef and turkey because it’s cheaper, less
detectable, and more fun than Ex-Lax. Kidding again. Actually it makes
the meat moister. Then researchers discovered that this same puree can
kill more than 90 percent of any E. coli bacteria that’s lurking in
the meat. The next thing you know they’ll figure out that prunes—I
mean, dried plums—can keep windows sparkling, help cars get 200 miles
per gallon, and erase sitcom laugh tracks.
One thing the Fancy Food Show did
make me realize is that I’m a simple guy at heart. Regular old
popcorn, full carb pasta, and high-test straight espresso work just fine
for me. Though to be honest, it wouldn’t hurt to follow them up with a
few of those Swiss cannabis pastilles just for, uh, good luck.
©2002 Mad Dog
Productions, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
These columns appear in better newspapers across the country.
Read them while munching on some fancy lo-fat decaf sardine
chips.
|
|