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      get 53 of Mad Dog's travel columnsin one wonderful book!
 Read
      more Mad Dog on the Road! Aloha, oy vey!(How I spent a month in Paradise
 and learned to live with the smell of
 burning sugar cane)
 by Mad Dog
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    | What
    this means is a well-kept secret, just like the Maui handshake and the fraternal finger
    greeting, which Id love to describe but Im afraid if I do da local boys will
    track me down, tie me to a surfboard, and feed me to the sea turtles. |  | Hawaii is
    beautiful. Palm trees swaying in the tropical breeze, crystal clear blue water, Mai Tais
    at sunset, and flattened toads every three feet. On Maui, it turns out, toads have no
    natural enemies. Well, except cars.     
    One of the first things you notice when you go to Hawaii is the language. It only has
    twelve letters and theyre all vowels. Someone should sell a few of them back to Pat
    and Vanna.      Interestingly, other than street names
    there are only two words in Hawaiian: aloha and mahalo. Aloha is an
    all-purpose word that means hello, good-bye, love, and "dont forget to tip
    me". Mahalo means thank you. I think. Its a little confusing since you
    see it everywhere, including the swinging flaps of the trash cans at Taco Bell which makes
    me wonder if it might actually be Spanish for "Deposit Chihuahuas here."      The reason Hawaiian isnt spoken more
    in the islands is because the missionaries tried to stomp it out, just like they did
    walking barefoot, nudity (nude bathing is still illegal and enforced in Hawaii), and sex
    in any position including their namesake, which even they didnt use. Or so they told
    their children.      To get around this, native Hawaiians spent
    hours developing their own variant language called pidgin, which is a combination of
    Hawaiian, Chinese, Portuguese, and bad English. Dats why da local boys talk about
    having stuffs for do and da kine.      What sentences like this mean is a
    well-kept secret, just like the Maui handshake and the fraternal finger greeting, which
    Id love to describe but Im afraid if I do da local boys will track me down,
    tie me to a surfboard, and feed me to the sea turtles which, by the way, are an endangered
    species. That means theyre smart enough to avoid the tourists.
 
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    | 
 Of course I was the only one at the festival
    eating Tahitian food. All the Hawaiians and Polynesians were chowing down on nachos, naaukake
    (hot dogs), and me ke kili (chili dogs).
 |  | If you do get to
    hear some real Hawaiian being spoken youll discover that its a very musical
    language which is good, since Hawaiis only other musical contribution is the
    ukulele, and its actually Portuguese. The best place to hear traditional Hawaiian
    music is at hula demonstrations, which are held every 30 feet or 20 minutes, whichever
    comes first. If you want to hear contemporary Hawaiian music, listen to radio station
    KPOA. This is a fun radio station, partly because the DJs have names like Maia
    Papaya.      In case you havent
    listened to contemporary Hawaiian music lately, it mostly consists of songs about the
    idyllic life on the islands. These are the Harlequin Romance novels of the music world.
    The rest of the playlist is remakes of songs that should never be remade, like Mungo
    Jerrys In the Summertime and anything by 10cc..       Amazingly, even though youre in
    Paradise you still have to eat. But Hawaiian food is hard to find on Maui. Picture Paris
    without baguettes, New York without knishes, or London with edible food. Hard to imagine,
    isnt it? Yet on Maui its easier to find Japanese food, Korean barbecue, or
    Jack in the Box than it is a Hawaiian restaurant. In fact there doesnt seem to be
    one, though you can find laulau (stuffed ti leaves) at Azekas, pork luau at
    the lunch wagon at Hana Bay, and Spam musubi (sushi) just about everywhere.
    Thats right, in addition to having the most snorkle rental shops per capita,
    Hawaiis also the Spam Eating Capital of the World.       Finding Tahitian food was easier, it was
    right there at the Polynesian Tahiti Fete. The fafa (corned beef, luau leaf, and
    coconut milk), Maiia (taro and banana), and ulu pua'a (corned beef,
    ulu, and onion) were all delicious. I never realized corned beef was Tahitian, though it
    makes sense when you realize the Lost Tribe of Israel actually ended up in Tahiti. This
    was an easy mistake to make back then since AAA didnt exist so there were no
    accurate Triptiks to Miami Beach.      Of course I was the only one at the
    festival eating Tahitian food. All the Hawaiians and Polynesians were chowing down on
    nachos, naaukake (hot dogs), and me ke kili (chili dogs). 
 
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    |  By
    far, the easiest place to find Hawaiian food is at a luau, where the centerpiece is a big
    fat pigthe Hawaiian symbol of the tourist. The Old Lahaina Luau is fun. Contrary to
    what you may think, theres a lot more to a luau than Mai Tais and a huge
    buffetthere are the half-naked men and women dancing the hula. |  
    | Get
    with it! If you want to serve a real Hawaiian pizza you should put Spam and macaroni salad
    on it. |  | At the Old
    Lahaina Luau they wiggle their way through the history of the hula, from the rapid hip
    movement of the Tahitian hula where they try to shake those damned little biting ants off,
    to the sensual motions of the Hawaiian hula where they tell a story with their hands. Of
    course since no ones watching their hands so they could be saying anything. I
    personally enjoyed the "Id Rather Be Surfing" hula the most.      (To answer the question thats on
    everyones mind: Yes, I did find out what they wear under their grass skirts. Kilts.
    Just like the Supreme Court justices wear under their robes.)      Oddly, the luau buffet doesnt include
    the one item you find on every lunch plate on Mauithe national dish, macaroni salad.
    It was served with Japanese katsu. It was served with laulau. There were
    even macaroni salad muffins at the coffee shop for breakfast. Just kidding. But I
    guarantee there will be now that Ive given them the idea.      Some of the best food on Maui is Chicago
    style pizza. And why shouldnt it be? If youre going to be a melting pot you
    might as well melt some cheese, right? BJs Chicago Style Pizza serves big fat pies
    on a scale that sits on your table so you can see how much youve eaten. Good idea.
    That way at the end of the night you realize you ate 4 lbs. of pizza and look like
    Takamiyama, the Hawaiian sumo wrestler.      BJs offers all kinds of toppings, yet
    theres no Hawaiian pizza to be found. You know, the award-winning combination of ham
    and pineapple you see on the mainland but nobody has ever ordered. Get with it! If you
    want to serve a real Hawaiian pizza you should put Spam and macaroni salad on it.
 
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    | Its
    impossible to spend any time in Hawaii without an endless loop of Spike Jones Hawaiian
    War Chant playing in your head 24 hours a day. 
 |  | There are a few
    other things I discovered while on Maui: 
      Theres no Hawaiian word for public transportation.
There are no hula hoops to be found, not even on the male dancers who
        get the women hooting and hollering at their pelvic thrusts, so much so that I expected
        the women to start shoving money down the guys sarongs.
Doing crossword puzzles eventually pays offI actually saw a
        4-letter word for Hawaiian goose while I was there. Yup, the nene.
The Hawaiian islands werent really formed from volcanic action,
        it only looks that way. Theyre actually great big ant hills. And let me tell you,
        the ants are still pissed that people settled there.
Its impossible to spend any time in Hawaii without an endless
        loop of Spike Jones Hawaiian War Chant playing in your head 24 hours a day. 
And Polynesian Paralysis (otherwise known as Island Inertia) sets in
        two hours after you first take off your shoes and doesnt go away until three days
        after your plane lands on the mainland.      Oh yeah. After a while you actually do get
    used to the constant smell of burning sugar cane fields.      
 ©1998 Mad Dog Productions, Inc. All
    Rights Reserved.These columns appear in better newspapers across the country. Cut
    them up and they make great hula skirts.
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